Sustainable Textile Design: Upcycling Techniques for Contemporary Fashion

Thesis Abstract

This study investigates sustainable textile design through upcycling techniques for contemporary fashion, addressing the escalating environmental impact of fast fashion and the underutilization of post-consumer textile waste. The central aim is to develop, implement, and evaluate a design-led upcycling framework that integrates material transformation, aesthetic quality, and lifecycle sustainability to produce commercially viable fashion artefacts. Specific objectives are to (1) map current upcycling practices in diverse fashion markets; (2) design a scalable upcycling workflow combining mechanical, chemical, and artisanal processes; (3) assess the environmental, economic, and social implications of the framework; (4) evaluate consumer perception and willingness-to-pay for upcycled garments; and (5) formulate guidelines for designers and small-to-medium enterprises to embed upcycling in product development. The study tests hypotheses that (H1) a structured upcycling workflow reduces embodied energy and water use by at least 25% compared to conventional recycling routes, (H2) co-design with end-users increases perceived value and willingness-to-pay for upcycled garments, and (H3) aesthetic innovations anchored in local craft traditions improve market acceptance across three regional contexts. Methodologically, the research adopts a mixed-methods design combining an experimental design for technical performance with a qualitative interpretive strand. The population comprises textile design studios, manufacturers, and fashion consumers across three urban centers with contrasting waste streams City A, City B, and City C, each contributing a minimum of 250 kg of post-consumer textile waste per month. A purposive sample of 12 design studios (4 per city) collaborates with the researcher to implement the upcycling framework over a 9-month period, producing a total of 60 garment prototypes and 120 accessories. Data collection instruments include material consumption logs, life cycle assessment (LCA) data sheets, process time and yield metrics, environmental indicators (energy, water, chemical use), cost accounting records, consumer survey instruments (Likert-scale scales and open-ended items), and semi-structured interview protocols for designers, producers, and retailers. The environmental assessment employs an attributional LCA in accordance with ISO 14044, using SimaPro software and Ecoinvent 3.5 datasets to quantify cradle-to-gate impacts. The consumer study uses a conjoint analysis design to estimate preferences and a thematic analysis of interview transcripts to uncover value drivers. Validity and reliability are ensured through triangulation, pilot testing of instruments, inter-rater reliability checks for coding (Cohen’s kappa > 0.70), and sensitivity analyses for LCA assumptions. Data analysis proceeds in three streams. Quantitative data from LCA, production metrics, and conjoint results are analyzed with multivariate regression to identify factors driving environmental benefits and market viability, complemented by ANOVA to compare across cities. The qualitative strand analyzes interview and design-session transcripts using thematic analysis to surface themes related to perceived authenticity, craft-based value, and cultural capital embedded in upcycled products. A conceptual model is developed to integrate environmental performance with consumer value perceptions and design feasibility. Specifically, the study examines how material provenance, process choices (mechanical shredding, chemical dissolution, hand-finishing), and design coherence influence lifecycle performance and consumer acceptance. Expected findings indicate that the upcycling workflow can achieve substantial reductions in embodied energy (28%), water use (32%), and waste-to-landfill diversion (up to 75%), while maintaining or improving product aesthetics and durability through a hybridity of industrial and artisanal techniques. Consumer analyses are anticipated to reveal higher willingness-to-pay for items that incorporate transparent storytelling, local craft motifs, and demonstrable environmental credentials, with variations across market segments and regions. The study contributes to knowledge by presenting a rigorous, scalable framework for fashion upcycling that balances ecological efficiency with market desirability, extends the theory of sustainable design through the integration of practice-based knowledge with lifecycle thinking, and offers practical guidelines for designers and small enterprises. The main conclusion posits that upcycling, when structured as a design-led, co-produced process that foregrounds material provenance, craft-based value, and transparent environmental metrics, can deliver both ecological gains and viable commercial opportunities in contemporary fashion. Recommendations include adopting standardized design-to-production checklists, investing in modular, reusable tooling, developing partner networks for material streams, and integrating upcycling metrics into brand storytelling and sustainability reporting. Suggestions for further research propose exploring regional craft typologies, long-term consumer behavior studies, and policy interventions to incentivize upcycling adoption at scale.